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Installing a 9-Inch Rear in a 1936 Ford Phaeton

Installing a 9-Inch Rear in a 1936 Ford Phaeton

You in all probability observed that is half two of the story coping with putting in a Chassis Engineering parallel leaf spring (with sway bar) package, a John’s Industries 9-inch Ford rear suspension in our 1936 Ford Phaeton. The brand new rolling inventory will include chrome reverse rims and extensive whites from Coker Tire. In the event you missed half one (Jan. ’19 situation) it dealt primarily with the meeting of the 9-inch rear and portray and prepping all these new elements for set up. Since that is a full bolt-in operation we painted all of the brackets previous to set up. Now we’re prepared to truly set up the elements.

In fact earlier than we will set up the brand new suspension the previous suspension have to be eliminated. As all the time, when working beneath a automotive make sure it’s safely supported, in this case the automotive is supported by the chassis so the suspension is hanging free and might be eliminated.

The removing course of is absolutely fairly easy. We started on the within of the automotive, by eradicating the transmission tunnel to entry the torque tube. Since that is a closed driveshaft we needed to disconnect the torque tube on the transmission.

Subsequent we moved underneath the automotive to disconnect parking brake cables, brake strains (our automotive had been transformed to hydraulic brakes) and take away the unique Houdaille lever motion shock absorbers. After eradicating the shocks take a while to rigorously look at the framerail as it’s common to have hair cracks the place the shocks are mounted. Should you discover a crack now’s the time to carry out a correct weld restore. Fortunately ours confirmed no indicators of cracking.

Subsequent we took a fast journey to our native tire retailer to have the rear tires faraway from the edges. We did this so we might roll the entire rear suspension out from beneath the automotive. The tires would by no means have cleared the fenders and the edges offered the wanted clearance, so the unit would truly roll.

With the wheels mounted we barely lifted the rear axle housing and supported it with jackstands. The load of the automotive continues to be on the chassis jackstands not the rear axle. We eliminated the nuts from the U-bolts holding the rearend in place and lowered the housing to the bottom with a flooring jack. The entire meeting was then rolled out from underneath the automotive, making means for our suspension and rear axle housing.

The Chassis Engineering rear leaf spring package for the 1935-1940 Fords has lengthy been a staple in the road rod world. It’s a easy, simple suspension swap that may be dealt with by most road rodders at residence. It’s a full bolt-in package so when you have a drill, hand instruments, and measuring units you possibly can set up this package.

Work started on the entrance spring hanger. Finding the bracket begins by eradicating the rivet on the backside of the framerail the place the X-member meets the aspect rail. That is in the “dog leg” of the body. Rigorously take away the rivet as this gap is usually used to bolt the bracket to the body. This brings us to the superb artwork of rivet removing. There are various strategies, personally I favor to drill a gap via the middle of the rivet after which knock the top off with a chisel. The trick right here is discovering the middle of the rivet for drilling functions. I fabricated as easy software for locating middle and middle punching a rivet (see photographs) and I had the rivets out in no time.

With the entrance rivet eliminated briefly bolt the bracket in place. Since early Ford frames differ this gap is just not a constructive locator, so measurements have to be checked. Utilizing a carpenter’s sq., examine the measurements to make sure the middle of the entrance spring gap is 23-Three/Four inches from the middle of the rear axle and 41-5/16 inches from the middle of the rivet in the ahead X-member brace. We used the manufacturing unit axle snubber as our axle centerline. In our case the rivet gap proved to be a good locator gap. As soon as the middle measurement has been verified merely drill the holes via the aspect body utilizing the bracket as a information. A set of switch middle punches will guarantee you’re drilling in the middle of every gap. The bracket was then bolted in place with the provided hardware. To finish the entrance mount there’s a second bracket that bolts to the highest of the body after which to the brand new decrease spring bracket. When bolted in place this bracket successfully packing containers the body, making the entrance spring mount very robust. Since we’re doing a “body on” set up we discovered the right location and drilled a pilot gap via the ground of the automotive after which via the highest of the framerail. The bracket additionally required two holes to be situated, marked, and drilled so we might bolt it to the brand new decrease bracket.

Subsequent up was mounting the rear spring hanger bracket. As soon as once more this begins by drilling out the rivet in the rear nook of the chassis and the rivet in the again nook of the rear crossmember. We used the identical technique for rivet removing after which briefly bolted the bracket by means of the rear gap and tried to bolt the entrance gap in place. Right here the aforementioned chassis variation from Ford got here into play. Our entrance gap required elongation of about 1/Eight inch for the bolt to undergo the rivet gap. A minor modification that then allowed the bracket to bolt in place. The underside of the framerail is sq. and clear earlier than drilling any holes. Additionally, be sure the vertical portion of the bracket is securely clamped towards the aspect of the framerail previous to any drilling.

With the bracket situated it’s a easy matter of drilling six holes per aspect to bolt the bracket in place. Start with the 2 bolts that undergo the aspect of the rails. Because the fuel tank is on the opposite aspect of the framerail it is strongly recommended that you simply put a wooden security block between the body and the fuel tank to make sure you don’t drill into the tank.  With the rear bracket bolted in place we will now mount the springs.

Utilizing the provided hardware mount the entrance of the spring via the entrance bracket and permit the spring relaxation on the ground. Now’s a good time to rotate the spring up to ensure the rear bracket aligns with the spring; ours was spot-on.

With each springs in place it’s time to roll our John’s Industries 9-inch Ford rear into place. Having somebody available to assist with this course of is a good concept as that is one heavy piece. With the rearend centered over the springs we positioned our Chassis Engineering 2-inch decreasing block on the spring after which raised the spring up and bolted it in place with the provided U-bolts. Since our axle housing didn’t have the spring pads welded in place we didn’t utterly torque the U-bolts, as we might be adjusting pinion angle later.

With the John’s 9-inch housing bolted to the Chassis Engineering springs it was a easy matter of jacking up the housing till the rear springs aligned with the rear spring hangers. The provided spring shackles have been then bolted in place and we now had a new rearend housing mounted in our 1936 Ford. Utilizing an angle finder we rotated the housing to have a Three-1/2-degree angle, we’ll weld the spring hangers to the axle housing after our coming tranny swap to make sure we have now the right angles earlier than remaining welding.

Subsequent we mounted the shock brackets to the rear crossmember of the chassis and put in the provided tube shocks from the decrease spring plate to the brand new higher shock mount. We had clamped the Chassis Engineering sway bar package on the housing previous to putting in the rear axle housing. Set up of the sway bar was very simple; merely find the provided brackets on the framerail, drill the required holes and bolt on the brackets. Earlier than bolting the brackets in place keep in mind to place the lengthy hyperlink bolt and one urethane bushing via the bracket so the bolt is hanging down. The hyperlinks drop straight right down to the sway bar and bolt in place. We needed to loosen the U-bolts on the rear housing and modify the sway bar for correct alignment and the job was accomplished.

All the package put in fairly simply and we have been rewarded with a brand-new rear suspension that may deal with loads of horsepower (though it’s uncertain our 59AB Flathead is a actual menace) and the leaf spring and rear sway bar will present good dealing with. We bolted on our new chrome rims and large whites from Coker Tire and lowered the automotive right down to the bottom. We have been happy with the stance however ultimate changes will probably be made after we set up a Tremendous Bell Four-inch dropped I-beam axle up entrance. Corporations like Summit Racing have decreasing blocks as skinny as 1/Four-inch, so dialing in the rear journey peak may be fairly exact. SRM

Our 1936 Phaeton goes to be a conventional, homebuilt automotive so the combination of Coker Tire chrome rims and extensive whitewalls will actually set the temper. The Chassis Engineering/Heidts parallel leaf springs supporting the John’s Industries 9-inch rear retains issues easy and conventional, too.That is the essential package from Heidts/Chassis Engineering. The parallel leaf springs and shock absorbers are a full bolt-in for 1935-1940 Ford frames. All hardware and directions are included in the package.In fact earlier than we will set up the brand new suspension and rear axle we should take away the unique operating gear. We started by eradicating the transmission tunnel to entry the entrance of the torque tube. We unbolted the tube from the transmission.Shifting to the rear we unbolted the Houdaille shock absorber from both sides and unbolted the drop hyperlink so the shocks have been not hooked up to the rear housing.We eliminated the tires from the wide-five rims so we might roll the rear axle meeting out from beneath the automotive. This might not be attainable with tires on the edges.And right here is the previous axle meeting full with transverse spring, wishbones, and wide-five brakes. Because it was all in working order it was straightforward to seek out a new house for this gear.The previous 1936 is awaiting a new John’s Industries 9-inch and a set of parallel leaf springs from Chassis Engineering. Since that is a “body on” construct we can be working from beneath the automotive. Clearly, if the physique was off the body it might be even simpler.To start the suspension set up we shall be drilling out this rivet to assist find the entrance spring hanger bracket. It may be troublesome to drill rivets by means of the middle, so determined to make a easy device to find the middle.We constructed this easy software utilizing a drilled-out half-nut and a piece of pipe. The nut matches over the rivet completely. Utilizing the right measurement switch punch ensured we might hit the rivet head lifeless middle.As you possibly can see that straightforward little software labored like a appeal. After the middle punch we drilled a pilot gap via the rivet, adopted by a 1/Four-inch drill.A pointy chisel and a hammer eliminated the top of the rivet. Then the physique of the rivet was tapped out of the opening with a punch, leaving this good, clear gap.We used the identical rivet removing course of on the underside of the body for the entrance spring hanger bracket. This gap serves as a locator gap for the bracket however measurements have to be checked to make sure the bracket is correctly situated.As per the instructions we used a carpenters sq. to examine the situation of the ahead bracket. The middle of the entrance spring eye to the middle of the axle housing ought to be 23-Three/Four inches.Sure the bracket was correctly situated we bolted it in place on the underside of the framerail. We then used a switch punch to middle punch the 2 aspect holes previous to drilling.We took a while to wash up the framerails and paint them earlier than doing the ultimate set up of the entrance spring hanger bracket. All hardware is provided with the Chassis Engineering package.Right here is the Chassis Engineering bracket bolted in place. With the physique on, it was unimaginable to see the highest of the framerail, and that’s the place the angle portion of the bracket is bolted to the highest of the framerail.This bolt fastens to the highest of the framerail. After drilling the opening from contained in the automotive down into the framerail, we opted to easily run the bolt via the ground of the automotive, then the bracket and framerail.We eliminated the rear nook rivet and the rivet behind the rear crossmember. Then the rear spring hanger bracket was loosely bolted in place by way of these rivet holes. Clamps have been used to tug the bracket up towards the underside of the framerail, then holes have been drilled (with a wooden block between the within framerail and the fuel tank). Lastly, the clamps have been eliminated and all bolts tightened.We had a robust time getting the entrance spring eye into the entrance bracket. Slightly than resort to a hammer we used a 1/2-inch bolt and a piece of scrap metallic to unfold the bracket roughly 1/Eight inch. Merely crank the bolt out and it’ll gently unfold the bracket.After spreading the entrance spring eye, the spring slipped proper into place. Once we torqued the entrance spring hanger bolt the bracket was pulled in tight to the spring.With each springs mounted to the entrance spring hangers, our 1936 Phaeton is prepared for the John’s Industries 9-inch Ford rear axle and brakes.We elected to make use of a set of Chassis Engineering 2-inch decreasing blocks. There are two holes in these blocks. We used the rear gap, which successfully moved the rear axle ahead 1/2 inch. This offered invaluable clearance between the rear axle housing and the chassis rear crossmember.After lifting the housing onto the carry ramps we slid it into place on a couple of previous towels and centered the housing aspect to aspect underneath the chassis. Get a robust pal to assist carry that 9-inch; that muther is heavy!With each springs bolted to the rear axle we used a scissor jack to rigorously increase the housing till the rear shackles aligned with the spring hanger bracket on the chassis.We used a little rubber lube on the shackle bushings and as soon as they have been aligned with the rear hanger they slipped proper into place. The within bracket and bolts maintain the shackles in place.The axle housing was now put in, resting on a pair of latest parallel leaf springs. We situated the higher shock mounts on the rear crossmember, drilled the three required holes (per aspect), and bolted the bracket in place, adopted by bolting the Chassis Engineering tube shocks in place. The rear axle set up is now full.We determined to put in the elective Chassis Engineering rear antisway bar; it actually does assist dealing with and controls physique roll. Just like the spring package, the sway bar package is a well-engineered, bolt-in affair.We had clamped the sway bar to the rear axle previous to putting in the housing, so all we needed to do was find the drop hyperlinks from the chassis right down to the sway bar. We clamped the brackets in place on the chassis and adjusted the sway bar on the axle housing so the hyperlinks have been hanging down straight.The brackets have been clamped to the underside of the framerail simply to mark and drill the holes. Last set up requires the bracket to go contained in the framerail. After bolting the bracket in place the ultimate gap is situated and drilled via the aspect rail. The spacer and bolt full the set up of the rear suspension.And right here it’s, all-new Chassis Engineering parallel leaf springs, tube shocks, antisway bar mounting a recent John’s Industries 9-inch rear axle all rolling on whitewalls and chrome rims from Coker Tire. That is our sort of stuff; clear, easy, and reasonably priced, and all of it matches and works nicely.This ultimate piece has nothing to do with putting in the rear suspension. We merely thought the large Houdaille shock absorber gap appeared dangerous so we fabricated an outer cowl plate and an inside bolt plate from 1/Eight-inch metal.The duvet plate appears a lot higher than the gaping gap left behind by the unique shock absorber. Two 7/16-inch bolts and one 5/16-inch bolt maintain the plate in place. It cleans issues up and little question provides some power to the world.In the meantime the group of technicians at Coker Tire have been busy mounting our 235/75-15 whitewall tires to the 6×15 chrome reverse wheels.Once you order a wheel and tire package deal from Coker Tire they’re professionally spin- balanced to make sure a clean journey.Weights are mounted to the rim, after which the stability is double-checked earlier than the wheels are wrapped with protecting cardboard in preparation for delivery direct to your door, able to bolt on the automotive.Few issues are extra essential in the general look of any scorching rod than the wheels and tires. Likewise, few moments are extra thrilling than the day that wheel and tire package deal arrives at your door—and don’t overlook to order lug nuts.And right here it’s, our 1936 tub driving on Coker Tire chrome rims and extensive whitewalls with all-new Chassis Engineering rear suspension and a brand-new John’s Industries third-member. We will truthfully say every part went as deliberate; now it’s time for a Pete & Jakes dropped axle up entrance. Keep tuned.

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